CHAUSATH YOGINI TEMPLE, BHEDAGHAT (M.P)

Legend of Yoginis: The term Yogini mostly invokes a sense of fear with a majority regarding them as followers of a secret tantric cult or ones capable of extreme destruction. Some consider them as female attendants of Goddess Durga. However, in essence, it is the feminine Sanskrit word for Yogi with their references in our ancient and medieval texts from Hinduism. Literally used for a female master practitioner of Yoga as a mark of respect, the ancient culture of Yoginis are as spiritual practitioners. Researchers have also found their relevance in Buddhist and Jain scriptures. The Chausath Yogini Temple, Bhedaghat, also called the Golaki Math, it has shrines for 81 rather than the usual 64 yoginis, hence it has more importance. Bhedaghat is famous for its marble rocks which soar in glittering splendor to a height of about hundred feet on either side of the Narmada. Alexander Cunningham refers it as a bathing-place on Narmada whereas the village is situated at the confluence of the Narmada and a small stream locally known as Saraswati but known as Banganga at Karanbel. Because of the sangam of two rivers, this place is considered holy. Cunningham mentions that King Gaya Karna took bath at this place with his queen, son, prime-minister, commander-in-chief at the occasion of granting a land to a Brahman. Queen Gosala Devi, widow of King Narasimha Deva, also took bath here while making a grant of a village. A small temple of Matrikas was constructed originally in 1st Century AD when the Kushanas ruled over this region. In the 7th-8th Century during, the beginning of the Kalachuri period, the original temple was extended as is evident from the analytical study of the existing sculptures. The present shape of the temple came into existence when Yuvrajdeva- I, the Kalachuri ruler came to power in 915 A.D. Bhedaghat Yogini temple, Cunningham suggests that the temple is dedicated to sixty-four Yoginis and the rest of the cells are occupied by other related deities like matrikas, Shiva, Ganesha. Matottara Tantra mentions a tradition of eighty-one Yoginis, further mentions about nine matrikas, Sapta-Matrikas with Chandika and Maha-Lakshmi, forming the inner circle of the chakra. Each of these nine matrikas issue nine Yoginis, thus forming a chakra of eighty-one. The eighty-one cells suggest that the temple was dedicated to the eighty-one Yognis as explained in Matottara Tantra. It also tells of 9 Matrikas (not the usual 8); each is counted as a yogini, and leads a group of 8 other yoginis, so that there are 9 groups of 9. The same text mentions that these eighty-one Yoginis were usually worshiped by royalties and thus it suggests that the temple at Bhedaghat was constructed by a royal member of some dynasty. The Yogini Temple at Bhedaghat is the largest yogini temple in India with the internal diameter of about 116 feet and the external diameter of about 131 feet. Cunningham describes it as a curious circular cloister of considerable antiquity located on singularly fine and commanding position above a hill near Narmada. The cloister consists of 84 square pillars which results in an arrangement of 81 cells and 3 entrances, two on west and one on south-east. The statues in the cloister cells are divided into two groups, standing and seated. Standing statues, five in number, are made of purplish sandstone while the sitting statues are in grey sandstone. The central temple, now known as Gauri-Shankar temple, is probably built after the original circular temple as suggested by Cunningham. It is located off-center of the inner courtyard, which is indeed very peculiar. The temple was constructed about two centuries later, by queen Alhanadevi whose inscription dated 1155 AD is found on an isolated slab. Another inscription of queen Gosaladevi, which is later than 1190 AD, does not talk about the construction but only her daily worship to the God. Inside the Garbhagriha of the small temple known as “Gaurishankar Mandir” is a rare image of Gauri- Shankar being worshipped, where Shiva and Parvati are shown seated on the back of a standing Nandi. This image depicts the departure scene of Shiva after his marriage with Parvati, and a small scene depicting the marriage procession is inscribed below this image, along with the inscription of “VARESHWAR” in Nagari- Lipi dating back to Eleventh Century. It is said to be a sculpture which is one of its kind in the whole country. Sculptures of Surya, dancing Ganesha, Lakshmi- Narayana, Naga- Nagi and three headed Shiva are also fixed in the walls of Garbha Griha. The design of the temple has been kept simple, but the idols of yoginis are exquisitely carved, each one depicting a unique posture. The most common posture found amongst these sculptures is "Lalitasana" mudra which is termed as the "royal pose" or a relaxed sitting posture. It has been constructed of primarily granite stone and the columns are all monolithic. This is the only temple where one will find Ganeshani or Vinayaki, the feminine form of Ganesha. She is one of Chausath Yoginis. The courtyard of the Chausath Yogini Temple offers a scenic view of the Gorge at River Narmada and the surrounding landscape. In spite of the grandness and huge scale of this temple, but was constructed in such a humble way, where a human being can relate easily with its scale. The whole setting is very calm and serene where one can definitely attain some peace while overlooking the beautiful views of river Narmada. There is a tunnel (now closed) which is clearly visible near the entrance gate of the circular periphery, and the locals say that this has been connected to the Madan Mahal Fort as Rani Durgavati used to visit this temple. Several festivals are celebrated in this temple. Especially during the full moons and on auspicious days, a grand celebration is organized by the temple association. Many devotees gather whenever any religious event is organized in the temple. A steep flight of stairs (about 150 or more) barefoot climb will reach to the beautiful temple situated on a hilltop. This process of climbing the stairs is also said to be helpful in purifying the body and soul. Compiled By Chaman Lal Gadoo, Email: cl.gadoo@gmail.com Blog: clgadoo.blogspot.com